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An Encounter with Century-Old Literary Gems: The Literary Exhibition of Haruo Sato's Travel Writing

Direction of Travel: In Taiwan, A Young Colony, 25 Years Old

Famous vs. UnknownTravel vs. Pilgrimage【Box】Story about Haruo Sato 2Real vs. Surreal【Box】Story about Haruo Sato 3

 

 

Famous vs. Unknown

By 1920, Taiwan had already been a Japanese colony for 25 years. Taipei had transformed from a cluster of three settlements to a rudimentary city. Taiwanese students organized clubs in Tokyo to enhance the culture of their hometown.

At the time, Loa Ho just came back from the cultural experience of the May Fourth Movement. Haruo Sato returned to Shingu to heal in February and came across his friend from middle school, Kiichi Azuma. This old friend, who once lived with Sato during his life in Tokyo, had a dental clinic in Taiwan. Seeing Sato languishing over love, he invited Sato to visit Taiwan as a distraction.

As the already famous Haruo Sato came to Taiwan, the colonial government was eager to take this chance to promote its governance. Meanwhile, his visit created splendid sparks through the collision with Taiwan's emerging literary genres and mature traditional literature.

 

Draft of "My Daily Life" (Writing Club, January 1920), Haruo Sato, Around December 1919, Newly Discovered Document. The marriage of Sato and Kayoko Maiya began in 1917. At that time, their relationship had already deteriorated. This prose represents his gloomy daily life when relying on his parents-in-law. (Kept by Jissen Women's University)

 

Unpublished manuscript, Haruo Sato, Around February 1920, Newly Discovered Document. Sato explained about a temporary halt in his writing career and his return to Shingu in this article on February 5, 1920. He came across Kiichi Azuma in Shingu and was invited to Taiwan. (Kept by Jissen Women's University)

 

Kiichi Azuma(1893-1945),1915.Born in Mie, Azuma was Sato's best friend in middle school. He went to Keelung for work in 1914 and began working at the Okada Clinic in Takao (Kaohsiung) in May 1917. Later on, he started his own clinic. He had lived in Tainan, Xiamen, Hong Kong, Malacca, and Guangdong. He not only was forthright and diligent, but also spoke foreign languages fluently. The day after the surrender of Japan, he passed away in Taipei due to tuberculosis. (Provided by Tetsuichiro Higashi)

 

Wife Ayatsuri Azuma and daughter Seu Azuma,1920.Wife of Kiichi Azuma. They married in 1918. Ayatsuri was a bright woman who was good at dancing and horse riding. Ayatsuri's original family left the undeveloped land of Hokkaido to settle in Yoshino, Hualien. Their daughter, Seu, was born in 1920. (Provided by Tetsuichiro Higashi)

 

Nearby Former Azuma Dental Clinic,April 1923,Photos of Trip to Takao Prefecture.(Idea Photo Studio, April 1924)Kiichi Azuma’s clinic used to be located behind the western-style house in the photo. Azuma moved to Tainan in 1921, and his clinic in Kaohsiung was taken over by his colleague, Takano Fukushi. It was situated along the current Qianguang Road.

 

 

Travel vs. Pilgrimage

In 1920, Taiwan served as a colony for the Empire of Japan to expand its resources and markets; it was also a new realm for professionals to make use of their expertise. Initially, Haruo Sato knew nothing about Taiwan. Yet, he trekked through the western part of Taiwan and its mountains, and gained a deep understanding of Taiwan's new and old cultures, the Han people, colonialism, and women's situation, thanks to the guidance and arrangements of Ushinosuke Mori and Hiroshi Shimormura.

Ushinosuke Mori was a scholar who studied the indigenous peoples of Taiwan. He taught Haruo Sato basic knowledge of Taiwan and planned the travel routes. He especially arranged Sato's visit to the mountains in Taiwan. Meanwhile, the Chief of General Affairs, Hiroshi Shimormura, helped arrange accommodation and tour guides not only for promoting the governance in Taiwan using Sato's fame, but also because both came from Wakayama. Along with the family of Kiichi Azuma, Mori and Shimormura respectively acted as Sato's civilian and governmental guides, allowing him to go on a journey that expanded his horizons and mindset, as well as increasing his personal experience and writing strengths.

 

Haruo Sato during Trip in Taiwan Photo Taken by Mori Ushinosuke, 1920. The place where this photo was taken is unknown. The second person from the right in the front row is Haruo Sato. This is the only photo of Sato during his visit to Taiwan. (Provided by Masafumi Mori)

 

Strange Tale of the Precepts for Women's Fan, Haruo Sato, February 1926, Diichi Shobo. Sato once said "the writer himself especially likes this story," and he even published a luxe Tankobon (standalone) book for this story. (From the collection of Tatsuya Kono)

 

Strange Tale of the Precepts for Women’s Fan, Haruo Sato, February 1926, Diichi Shobo.The beginning of this book features a dedication to Ushinosuke Mori and Hiroshi Shimormura for their tremendous support during the trip. (Provided by Isao Kawahara)

 

Hiroshi Shimomura(1875-1957), Director of Ministry of Civil Affairs. Born in Wakayama, Shimormura became Director of Ministry of Civil Affairs, Taiwan Sutokufu in 1915 (renamed Director of General Affairs Bureau in 1919). In 1945, he acted as Head of Cabinet Intelligence and Research Office and planned the Jewel Voice Broadcast (the Japanese Emperor reading aloud the Imperial Rescript on the Termination of the Greater East Asia War). Shimormura was a Waka writer under the name Kainan. He sent secretary Mitsujirō Ishii to take care of Sato during his trip in Taiwan. (Provided by the National Diet Library of Japan)

 

Ushinosuke Mori(1877-1926). The photo was possibly taken at Kang San Lau in Taipei. Ushinosuke Mori (2nd from the right, sitting) was born in Kyoto. He came to Taiwan as an Army interpreter in 1895. He traveled around Taiwan to investigate Aboriginal tribes and gained enormous trust from local residents. When Sato visited Taiwan, he was a contract employee of Sutokufu Museum (now National Taiwan Museum). In 1926, he committed suicide by jumping into the sea from the ship Kasato-Maru. (Provided by Sato Haruo Memorial Museum)

 

Letter from Ushinosuke Mori to Haruo Sato, September 2, 1920. The detailed travel itinerary sent to Sato by Mori. Thanks to Mori, Sato was able to gain an in-depth local experience in Taiwan. 

 

Musha (Popular Edition)Haruo Sato, June 1936, Shoshinsha.The epilogue of Musha contains the travel itinerary arranged by Mori. Yet, due to a storm, the trip was delayed for about a week. (Provided by Isao Kawahara)

 

Indigenous Tribes in Taiwan, Ushinosuke Mori, March 1917, Extempore Bureau for Investigating Customs in Taiwan (Rinji Taiwan Kyūkan Chōsakai).The results of Mori's research on Taiwan's indigenous tribes. Sato brought this book, which was given to him as a gift, during his trip and made reference to it in his works “Musha” and “Magical Bird.” (From the collection of Tatsuya Kono)

 

Scenic Spots and Historic Landmarks in Taiwan, Yasunori Sugiyama, April 1916, Taiwan Sutokufu. (From the collection of Tatsuya Kono)

 

Notebook of Ushinosuke Mori, Newly Discovered Document. The notes were taken in the Meiji era. Mori brought this notebook with him all the time when conducting on-site investigations. The notebook contains records of his research on indigenous languages. (Kept by Jissen Women's University)

 

Glass beads given to Sato by Mori, Newly Discovered Artifact. A personal belonging left behind by the deceased Chiyo. Sato gave this indigenous accessory to Chiyo to commemorate their love. (Kept by Jissen Women's University)

 

 

【Box】All about Haruo Sato 2 

The transport in Taiwan at that time was incomparable with how it is now. It took Haruo Sato three days to get to Taiwan from Japan by ship. Then, how did he travel from the plains to Sun Moon Lake, which is surrounded by mountains? 

A. High Speed Railway

B. Bamboo-copter

C. National Freeway 6

D. Human-powered “Uber” (Pulled Rickshaw)

 

Answer: Human-powered “Uber” (Pulled Rickshaw) During Haruo Sato's trip to Taiwan, he took all the possible means of transportation in the 1920s.

Under Japanese rule, long-distance trips were difficult. The ship schedule or train schedule would be announced in the newspapers. The tonnage of the ship, ship schedule, location, estimated arrival dates, actual arrival dates, and even famous passengers on the ship would be clearly recorded. At the time, Haruo Sato took the ship “Bingo Maru” to Northern Taiwan.

\

  (from Taiwan Daily News)   

Judging from Haruo Sato’s description in “Traveler,” we can tell that the transportation was not as convenient as it is now on the island of Taiwan under Japanese rule, especially for trips to the mountains. Haruo got off at a nameless train station and changed to a refitted handcar to Jiji Street and stayed there for a night. The next day, he took a pulled rickshaw to Sun Moon Lake and stayed at the hotel there. Within two days, he had already made use of three modes of transport.

(“Private Handcar Railroad 1” (1921) Department of Railway, Taiwan Sutokufu; “Rickshaw” (1930) Department of Railway, Transportation Bureau, Taiwan Sutokufu. Database of Old Photos of Taiwan)

The so-called handcar is a human-powered light railroad car. It was used to transport goods and resources. The handcar Haruo took was refitted and equipped with a seat and a cover. The rickshaw was a human-powered transport. It required two runners at the front and back to hold on to one or two long poles and the passenger sat on the seat. It was widely used on steep mountain roads. Places where the modern railway was not present still used the rickshaw as a means of transportation.

 

However, apart from the mountains, Haruo Sato was able to travel between Taipei, Taichung, Tainan, and Kaohsiung, manifesting the convenience brought by the Western Trunk Line:

The railway covering the Keelung to Kaohsiung route was extremely important in defense, politics, and the economy. The construction started in May 1899 and was completed in April 1908. The opening of the Western Trunk Line facilitated the economic development of the island of Taiwan. Especially due to the impact of WWI, the economy of Taiwan became unprecedentedly prosperous.

 

 

In addition to the establishment of the railway system, highways and cars were also introduced. The evolution of transportation not only boosted the economy, but also provided the foundation for tourism. The completion of the Western Trunk Line extended travel destinations and also started the trend of traveling in Taiwan. Meanwhile, business operators of the tourism industry and merchants from Japan built hotels in Taiwan. What’s more, the convenient transport network enabled systematic travel, contributing to all types of tourism agencies, hotels, and travel brochures. Thanks to these travel-friendly changes, Haruo was able to successfully travel all the way to Southern Taiwan from Northern Taiwan.

 

For Japanese people, coming to Taiwan was like an adventure in the beginning of the colonial period. However, as Japan expanded its control of Taiwan and strengthened its measures of governance, the land of Taiwan was gradually developed, the railway system started to expand, and the adventurous way of traveling in Taiwan was gradually replaced by safe traveling and tourism. Therefore, for Japanese people, Taiwan was charming yet dangerous. For instance, the indigenous people in “Musha,” who had not completely surrendered to the Japanese colonial government, was a source of horror to Haruo Sato; traveling there was no longer touristic but adventurous.

(Original Text by: Yu-Kai Lin)

 

 

Real vs. Surreal

In the summer of 1920, Haruo Sato arrived in Keelung and began his trip from Southern Taiwan to Northern Taiwan. In the middle of his trip, he also went to Xiamen and Zhangzhou. During his visit, Taiwan went through the petition movement for the establishment of a Taiwanese parliament, as the colonial government strongly advocated interethnic marriage and cultural assimilation. Meanwhile, the Slamaw Incident broke out in Central Taiwan.

Haruo Sato attended banquets with Japanese officials, talked with prestigious Taiwanese intellectuals, and carried out extensive discussions with people against the colonial government, such as Lin Xian Tang. When Sato was visiting Fujian, he also met with Japanese, Chinese, and Taiwanese people.

During this first overseas travel, the means of transportation Sato used, the places he visited, and people he met, all helped him realize the entanglement of cultural codes and geopolitics, along with the communication barriers posed by differences between ethnic groups and linguistic disparities. In view of the complicated relationships among Taiwan, China, and Japan in the 1920s, Sato kept records by writing prose and further transformed the local folktales.

Through mystical figures such as the female ghost that wandered around ruins, the magical bird that scared off living people, and the locust that understood people, Sato presented the absurdity and helplessness in life.

 

“Xiamen, China” Haruo Sato, Year Unknown (Oil Painting, Wood Panel). This painting portrays the scenery of the international settlement Gulangyu that Sato saw when visiting Xiamen. (From the collection of Sato Haruo Memorial Museum)

 

Zheng-Xiang Shou(Birth and death date unknown), Around 1930. On the right of the photo is Kiichi Azuma. The person in the middle is considered to be Zheng-Xiang Shou. Zheng was the assistant of Azuma Dental Clinic, who accompanied Sato during his trip to Xiamen. (Provided by Tetsuichiro Higashi)

 

Trip to the South, Haruo Sato, April 1922, Shinchosha.Sato's writings on his trip to Fujian. As a Japanese traveler, Sato wrote in this book about the disrupted China due to Constitutional Protection Movement and May Fourth Movement. This sort of article is very rare among Sato's works. (From the collection of Tatsuya Kono)

 

Haruo Sato in the Study, Shincho, Issue of March 1919, Preface, Colored. The book design of Trip to the South. Inspired by the patterns of the souvenir tablecloth brought back by Jun'ichirō Tanizaki from China. (Provided by Tatsuya Kono)

 

Trip to the South, Haruo Sato, July 1936, Shunyodo Publishing House. As the situation in China attracted world attention in the year before the Second Sino-Japanese War, Trip to the South was re-published in the form of Bunkobon (small-format paperback books). (From the collection of Tatsuya Kono)

 

Draft of "Bright Moon" (Shincho, November 1921), Haruo Sato,1921.On Display for the First Time. This prose was later included in Trip to the South and renamed "Bright Moon in Lujiang." It depicts a beautiful geisha Sato sees under the moon in Xiamen. (Kept by Jissen Women's University)

 

Liao Zai Back Street, Xiamen,1910. This is a brothel in front of Shuixian Temple. Sato came here with Zheng-Xiong Lin, the eldest son of Ji-Shang Lin (Minnan Commander in Chief) from the distinguished Lin Family in Wufeng. (Provided by Tatsuya Kono)

 

Draft of “Jimei School” (Shincho, September 1921), Haruo Sato, 1921, Newly Discovered Document. The draft illustrates the heightened anti-Japanese movement in Xiamen at the time. Sato disguised himself as a “Taiwanese tourist” to avoid trouble; yet this part was not published in the end. (Kept by Jissen Women's University)

 

   

Koa-á Book (Wuniang Jumps into the Old Well, Wuniang Sends Winter Clothes), Xiamen Hui Wen Tang Bookstore, Newly Discovered Document. When Sato was travelling in Fujian, interpreter Chao-Fan Xu told him the story of "Tân Saⁿ and Gō͘-niû." This book was probably bought for reference. When Sato was travelling in Fujian, interpreter Chao-Fan Xu told him the story of "Tân Saⁿ and Gō͘-niû." This book was probably bought for reference. (Kept by Jissen Women's University)

 

Okamoto Yōhachirō(1876-1960),1924.A mineralogist from Aichi Prefecture. He came to Taiwan in 1899 and discovered Hokutolite in 1905. He once worked with Ushinosuke Mori to plan for the Sutokufu Museum. In 1913, he assumed the position of Director of Xuying Academy in Xiamen, whom Mori recommended Sato to visit. (Provided by Masatoyo Okamoto)

 

Chao-Fan Xu (1889-1941) & Jin-Hua Yu (1898-?),Around 1920.Photo taken at Bailudong, Xiamen. From the left: Chao-fan Xu, Jin-hua Yu. The two were heads of student affairs at Xuying Academy. Okamoto introduced them to act as Sato’s interpreters during his trip in Zhangzhou. (Provided by Shih-Hsiung Hsu)

 

Draft of "Tale of the Lychee Mirror" (Musasabi's Draft, November 1937, collected by Jimbun Shoin),Newly Discovered Document. Sato's "Star" (Kaizo, March 1921) was inspired by the story of "Tân Saⁿ and Gō͘-niû." This book explains issues regarding the different versions of this Huaben (short story). (Kept by Jissen Women's University)

 

Mu-Tu Lin(1893-1977), Around 1923. Born in Banqiao, Taiwan. Lin went to Xiamen in 1918 to work as the branch director of Xingao Bank. He warmly welcomed Sato at his residence in Gulangyu. (Provided by Wei-Hsing Lin)

 

Travel route of Haruo Sato in the 1920s

 

 

【Box】All about Haruo Sato 3 

Haruo Sato went to Fujian from Taiwan and stayed there for around two weeks. He adapted the legends he heard during this time into the story "Star". This story illustrates a scholar who travels to the capital for imperial examinations, and comes across the daughter of a wealthy family. After much effort, the scholar gets to marry the daughter; yet, a family tragedy takes place. Upon which legend did Haruo Sato base this story?

A. Susan Left Hongtong Country

B. Tân Saⁿ and Gō͘-niû (Tale of the Lychee Mirror)

C. Tang Bohu Picks Qiu Xiang as His Bride

D. Farewell My Concubine Answer: B. Tân Saⁿ and Gō͘-niû (Tale of the Lychee Mirror)

 

Do you think that Haruo Sato only went on in-depth trips in Western Taiwan during his three-month stay in Taiwan?

 

In fact, upon Haruo Sato's arrival in Taiwan, Taiwan was struck by the stormy season, which completely disrupted his travel schedule. At Mori Ushinosuke's suggestion, the author of Indigenous Tribes in Taiwan, Haruo Sato changed his itinerary. He asked Xiang-Shou Zheng, the assistant of the dentist clinic owned by his old friend Kiichi Azuma from middle school, to serve as his interpreter and guide. Then, he traveled to Xiamen and Zhangzhou, where he had long aspired to go. This unplanned trip was recorded in Trip to the South. In this book, Haruo Sato mentions that he gained inspiration for "Star" from the story of Tân Saⁿ and Gō͘-niû at the hotel in Zhangzhou.

 

 

People who are familiar with traditional Chinese theatrical operas probably all know about "Tân Saⁿ and Gō͘-niû". This is a story widely circulated in the Min and Nanyang regions. It has various ways of presentation, such as novel and theatre. The main male and female protagonists are Tân Saⁿ and Gō͘-niû; there is also a matchmaker, the servant girl Ik Tshun. The well-known classic scenes of the stories include Gō͘-niû throwing lychee and Tân Saⁿ grinding a mirror. The story mainly depicts the relationship between Gō͘-niû and Tân Saⁿ. It is also called Tale of the Lychee Mirror or Tale of the Lychee.

 

Inspired by the story of Tân Saⁿ and Gō͘-niû, Haruo Sato created "Star". In this work, he keeps the original characters and their names, but increases the scenes of Ik Tshun, making her more important than Tân Saⁿ and Gō͘-niû. The original story was set in the Song dynasty, but the child Ik Tshun is pregnant with in "Star" is Hong Chengchou, an eminent Chinese official in the late Ming dynasty. Also, the "Star of the Fate" that pervades the entire story carries more significant meaning than "lychee" and "mirror", which are the two representative objects of the original Tân Saⁿ and Gō͘-niû. Judging from these changes, "Star" is evidently a derivative work by Haruo Sato.

 

The places and objects appearing in "Star", e.g. the watchtower, Zouma building (the second-floor balcony, also present in another famous work by Haruo Sato, "Strange Tale of the Precepts for Women's Fan"), are all incorporated with his true travel experience and imagination. Together with Trip to the South, "Star" shows the impact of the trip to Fujian on Haruo Sato's works.

 

In Trip to the South, Haruo Sato describes two women he observed: one is a beautiful woman he saw upon his arrival in Xiamen, when she was bending down to play with a monkey on the second-floor balcony; the other was a well-mannered young woman gambling on the second-floor balcony. Both on the balcony of the second floor, these women show two contrasting aspects in the eyes of Haruo Sato. These two women in the same type of space respectively represent pure beauty and depravation; similarly, Gō͘-niû, throwing lychee on the balcony, also has both aspects of beauty and jealousy.

 

Through his imagination and understanding of the Chinese culture as well as his travel experience in Xiamen, Haruo Sato transforms the Chinese-style second-floor balcony, a positive space that breaks the barriers between private and public territories and connects people, into an unstable area that probes into the legitimacy of an intimate relationship.

 

 

The love triangle between Tân Saⁿ, Gō͘-niû, and Ik Tshun in "Star" demonstrates Haruo Sato's person perspectives, resonating with the relationship dilemma he faced back in Japan.

 

In "Star", Tân Saⁿ falsely believes that he has found the right person and everything would settle down after starting a family. However, based on the incident triggered by Gō͘-niû, it shows that though "family" provides shelter, it is at times the source of a thunderstorm. The intimate relationship built by the three characters in one household eventually breaks.

 

Haruo Sato is also unable to solve this dilemma. The story can only destroy the wonderful imagination about having a family, and come to an abrupt end. It even borrows Hong Chengchou, a famous historical figure, as the successor of Tân Saⁿ to wrap up the story.

 

Haruo Sato's work does not provide any answer to the quandary about love or the absence of love, nor does it solve the entangled love triangle because Haruo Sato was also in the middle of his life's journey looking for his own direction, which was precisely why he traveled to Taiwan.

(Original Text by: Yu-Kai Lin)

 

 

 

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